Alteration Guide for the Bustier of the Kika Playsuit / Dress

KIKA is a dress or playsuit pattern with a bustier worked with cutouts like a corsetry piece. Although the pattern has been tested on many sizes and body shapes to get the most versatile fit possible, and offers a nice cut ranging from 34 to 52, you may need to adjust the pattern (we do not all have the same shape or height, some have a short bust and others long ect.).

Don't panic, we've thought of everything to make you look your best in KIKA, and we've made this free bustier fitting guide available to you.

Basic equipment to perform a transformation

To transform a pattern, it is advisable to bring along :

• Adhesive tape
• A parrot rule
• A square
• A graduated ruler
• A support sheet
• A pair of paper scissors
• A fine point pen/pencil

Preparation of the pieces

Before making any alterations to the Kika front bustier pieces, it is necessary to prepare certain pieces. It is essential to work without seam allowances and to merge the top front band with the side front and middle front pieces.

Remove seam allowances

• Define the size in which the Kika suit will be made:

• For A, C and D cups, it is not advisable to choose your pattern size based solely on your bust size, as the garment will not fully fit your own body type. It is therefore advisable to choose your size according to your measurement at the top of your chest and not your chest size. To do this, refer to the pattern's measurement table, always in the "bust size" column. Note that the size chosen is always based on a B cup.
• Shift the following pattern pieces into the defined size: side front, middle front, top front left, top front right.
• Cut 1 cm off the inside of the pieces to obtain the lines without a seam allowance. It is important to check that all the markings are still present on the pieces.
• Cut off the excess paper.

 

Merge the top front band with the side and middle front

• Superimpose the two strips making up the top front. You can see that their shape is identical except for their length. The left band is shorter in the middle front than the right band.
• Transfer the middle front edge of the left strip to the right piece. Use only the right-hand strip to carry out the rest of the preparations. This will avoid repeating all actions twice when processing the parts.
• Place the top front strip against the top edge of the front piece. The sides of the two pieces (on the left in the drawing) must be perfectly aligned. This way the two pieces fit together perfectly at the cut-out. Tape the two parts together. Draw a line across the entire width of the top front band, in line with the strap cut-out.
• Cut on the line. The strip is now split into 2 parts.

• Place part 2 of the top front strip against the top edge of the middle front piece. The two parts fit together perfectly along the cut-out again. Secure both parts with adhesive tape.

 

The front bustier pieces are now ready to be transformed!

Adaptation of the KIKA bustier with strap cut: reduction or enlargement of the cup

The technique explained in this tutorial makes it possible to enlarge the front pattern so that the bustier perfectly encompasses the bust.

If the bodice needs to be reduced instead of enlarged, the technique is the same. Instead of spreading the lines apart, they should overlap.

Front side modifications

Construction of the transformation lines

The most important modification is on the front piece. A slight adjustment will also have to be made to the middle front piece.

• Check that a mark is placed at the apex (breast point), i.e. on the most rounded part of the piece. This point will be used as a basis for the transformation of the pattern.
• From this point, draw 3 axes on the pattern:

- Draw a line A towards the side, without crossing the high band in front.

- Draw a slanted line B ending in the hollow of the neckline, towards the underarm. Avoid the upper part of the neckline where the straps will be.

- Draw a line parallel C to the straight line downwards. This line passes outside the workpiece, so it must be fixed to a paper support beforehand.

Pattern transformation

• Cut along lines A and B, stopping 2-3 mm short of the neckline and the apex.
• Cut the paper support along the line C. The excess to its right should be removed.
• Draw a vertical line on a new sheet of paper.
• Position the pattern piece on this sheet with the C-axis and apex point exactly against the vertical line.
• Secure the area of the workpiece that does not require a pivot using tape.

• Drag the lower part of the workpiece so that the line C moves parallel to the amount required for enlargement. The A and B axes should open naturally.
• Fix the area near the underside of the sleeve.
• To reduce the existing clamp following the pivot of the parts, draw a line along the bottom line of the clamp until it meets the x point on the other side of the gap.
• Cut along the line, stopping 2-3 mm before the apex.

• Close the clamp, rotating the entire lower part of the workpiece. A new gap is formed at point x. This is the principle of the clamp pivot.
• The gap measurement obtained towards the apex point (breast tip) corresponds to embus and will be resolved at the time of assembly with the front middle piece.

• Soften the angled line at the pivot point along the neckline.
• Trace the cut between the front piece and the top front band. Measure the width of the band at the strap cut-out (y) and ensure that the entire band remains at this width.
• Retrace the strap cut by slightly digging the line under the chest.
• Mark the new mounting notch at the breast plate. It should be located in the centre of the area corresponding to the tip.
• Separate part 1 of the top band and the front side.

Changes in the environment in front of

• Draw a line perpendicular to the straight thread on the bottom of the front middle piece.
• Cut on the line and spread the 2 parts of the missing value so that the piece has the same length as the front side piece between the waist and the mounting notch.

Reconstruction of the top left and right front strips

• Assemble the transformed part 1 (and identical for the left and right strips) with the untransformed part 2 of each of the right and left strips.

After all these modifications, it is advisable to carry out a test in a fabric before launching out in the manufacture of its clothing.

Vertical displacement of the PRINCE CUTTER

The technique explained in this tutorial allows you to visually move the cut-out placed between the front side and middle front pieces. It can be moved vertically towards the side or towards the middle front. During this modification, the breast point and the rounding allowing to receive the breast are also moved.

Construction of the transformation lines

The change to be made must be made simultaneously on the front side (merged with part 1 of the top band) and the middle front (merged with part 2 of the top band). If this basic principle is not followed, there will be an imbalance between the different parts of the pattern.

• Draw a line parallel to the straight thread on the front and middle front pieces. Place it anywhere as long as you avoid the mounting notches.
• Cut on the axes. Each piece is thus split into 2 parts: areas a and b on the front side and areas c and d on the middle front.

Transformation of the pattern: moving the cutout to the side

• On the front side of the workpiece, drag the area b parallel to the area a by the required amount.
• On the middle front piece, space the c and d areas in parallel using the same value as for the front side.

The side piece is therefore reduced while the middle piece is enlarged.

Redraw the outline of the rooms by drawing curved and harmonious lines.

 

• Separate part 1 (top band) and the front side.
• Separate part 2 (top band) and the middle front.

Transformation of the pattern: moving the cutout to the middle front

• On the front side of the workpiece, space out area a and area b in parallel by the required amount.
• On the middle front piece, drag the c area onto the d area in parallel using the same value as for the front side.

The side piece is therefore enlarged while the middle piece is reduced.

Redraw the outline of the rooms by drawing curved and harmonious lines.

• Separate part 1 (top band) and the front side.
• Separate part 2 (top band) and the middle front.

Reconstruction of the top left and right front strips

• Assemble the transformed part 1 (and identical for the left and right strips) with the transformed part 2 of each of the right and left strips.

 

 

After all these modifications, it is advisable to carry out a test in a fabric before launching out in the manufacture of its clothing.

Horizontal displacement of the breast tip

Depending on the shape of your breasts and the arrangement of the breast tips, it may be worthwhile to move the mounting notch on the bustier corresponding to the breast tip and to modify the curve along the strap cut. This slight modification can be very important for the fit of the model.

Pattern transformation: breast tip up or down

The modification should be made on both the front side and the middle front so that the parts fit together perfectly when assembled.

• On the front side piece, raise/lower the mounting notch corresponding to the breast tip parallel to the straight thread.
• Retrace the strap cut.

For the case of the raised notch and taking the basic line before modification as a reference: the rounding must be more marked above the notch. Underneath, the line should be slightly deeper.

For the case of the lowered notch and taking the base line before modification as a reference: the rounding should be more marked below the notch. Above, the line appears flatter.

• Repeat this process on the front middle piece.
• Measure the lines along the cut-out and on either side of the notch. Check that the measurements are identical on both pieces.

• Separate part 1 (top band) and the front side.
• Separate part 2 (top band) and the middle front.

Reconstruction of the top left and right front strips

• Assemble part 1 (identical for the left and right strips) with part 2 of each of the right and left strips.

After all these modifications, it is advisable to carry out a test in a fabric before launching out in the manufacture of its clothing.