About the Sewing Patterns

About the Fabrics

Each collection launch is a festive moment! I love feeling your excitement and enthusiasm when you discover new patterns and fabrics. However, I understand that many of you want more detailed information about the new releases. That’s why I’ve compiled everything I think is important to help you make the best choices or clarify certain points. This FAQ answers the most common questions, whether about our sewing patterns or fabrics. It focuses on the Le Rivage collection, but some points might also apply more generally. Let’s dive in!

About the Sewing Patterns

I’m not an expert in sewing but have fallen in love with several intermediate-level patterns. Do you think I can manage them?

All our sewing patterns come with an illustrated booklet and a very detailed step-by-step video, available for free in the “Tuto” section of our website and on our YouTube channel (you don’t need to purchase the pattern to watch the videos). You can watch our videos to gauge the difficulty and techniques involved. Here’s how I determine a pattern’s technical level:

  • Number of pieces: The more pieces a pattern has, the higher the chance of errors, such as stretching, misalignment, or inaccurate transfers.
  • Technical points: Setting in sleeves, attaching collars, or inserting invisible zippers are techniques that classify a pattern as intermediate. Attaching a lining to a coat is not necessarily difficult, especially as we detail and simplify this step as much as possible in our designs. However, welt pockets, fly zippers, or non-tearable vents are very technical steps.
  • Fabric choice: If you’re eyeing a somewhat technical pattern but doubt your ability to sew it, you might still give it a go with an easy-to-sew fabric. Avoid fabrics that slip or deform easily. A lovely cotton or viscose poplin will make sewing easier and give you great results without the stress. Additionally, consider making a “toile” (a test garment) to familiarize yourself with the pattern and techniques before cutting into your final fabric.

Will the Le Rivage collection patterns also be available in PDF?

The new collections are only offered in beautiful envelopes adorned with the exclusive design of the collection. For the time being, we will not be offering the Le Rivage patterns in PDF format. To learn more about our approach regarding PDF patterns, you can watch this video available on our YouTube channel (subtitles are available in the settings of the YouTube toolbar.)

Can I lengthen the Tempête blouse or Déferlante blouse to make a dress?

You can easily lengthen the beautiful Tempête blouse to sew a dress with a draped collar by following the advice I give in the “sewing the Cicadella blouse as a dress” video. You’ll end up with a short A-line dress. For a longer dress, extend it to your desired length. For the Déferlante blouse, the pleats and button placket option mean you’ll need to carefully consider the ease. Use the same tutorial, but make sure to sew a toile to validate your modifications.

Can I make a blouse version of the Péninsule dress or alter its length?

The Péninsule dress pattern features waist darts on the front and back bodice. To transform it into a blouse, several alterations are needed (releasing the darts, extending the sides to lower the garment, and possibly adding ease around the hips). Converting this pattern to a blouse will require some work and a toile. However, you can easily shorten the dress if you’d like it to sit above or below the knee instead of mid-calf.

Can I lengthen the Récif trousers to go below the ankle?

Absolutely! The pattern includes lengthen/shorten lines. You can adjust the Récif trousers to suit your height or preferences.

Can I sew Récif without the turn-ups?

The pattern includes specific markings for the turn-ups on the legs. You can use these markings to remove the turn-ups. However, it would be a shame not to include them, as they’ve been thoughtfully designed to be stable, adding a unique touch to the model. But of course, it’s your creation, so feel free to do what suits you best!

Can I lengthen the Cliff coat to make it three-quarters or full-length?

The Cliff coat’s shape is somewhat rounded, achieved through pleats at the bottom of the back and its wide, low belt (below the hips). While anything is possible in sewing, this would require significant alterations. If you prefer longer coats but aren’t experienced in pattern modifications, I recommend the Tigris, Tsar, Pam, or Ray patterns.

I’m taller than 1.65m—can I adjust the patterns for my height?

Our patterns are designed for a height of 1.65m in size 36. As sizes increase, the garment length also increases slightly. We provide a finished garment measurement chart in the pattern brochure to help you confirm the length. In our photoshoots, Vanina wears size 52 and is 1.70m tall, with no particular adjustments made.
Furthermore, our patterns include lengthen/shorten lines. If some pieces don’t, they can simply be lengthened at the bottom. I recommend adding twice the amount of fabric needed for the extra length to the suggested fabric quantity—for example, if you want to lengthen your blouse by 5 cm, add 10 cm to the fabric requirement for your size.
Feel free to download our free “tailoring guide” to adjust patterns to your body shape.

I’d like to sew a Tempête blouse, Déferlante shirt, or Péninsule dress in your lovely lace fabrics—how should I line them?

None of the lace garments in our visuals are lined. For tops, our lace fabrics have few openwork sections, and with a bra that doesn’t stand out, this isn’t a problem. If you still want to line your garments, I can’t guide you on a proper lining for these patterns: the construction of each includes pleats, darts, and/or panels that make it difficult to describe how to line them correctly. A specific lining pattern would be required.
However, we’ve considered this scenario for several seasons now: we offer the Blush slip/camisole pattern, which can be worn under all your lace pieces. Additionally, our fabric section includes a range of cotton voiles in colours that match our lace fabrics.

About the Fabrics

I love the new Panache print, but does the pattern have a direction?

No, you can place your pieces however you like—there’s no direction or matching required for the Panache viscose poplin.

What sewing thread/buttons do you recommend for your prints?

We’ve listed the compatible thread spools and button colours for each of our prints on their product pages. You just need to pick your favourites.

What amount of fabric is needed to sew my blouse/dress/coat/trousers, etc.?

All fabric quantities and necessary supplies are listed by size on the product page for each fabric. These amounts are based on a fabric width of 140 cm and will apply to all fabrics in the collection.

Are your fabrics like viscose twill or poplin opaque, or do they need lining?

Our viscose twill weighs 200g/m² and is quite opaque. Our viscose poplins don’t require lining either, especially as this season’s colours are rather dark or well-covering. You won’t need to line dresses made with these fabrics.

And what about lace?

If you don’t want the lace to reveal your skin, we offer a full range of cotton voiles in matching colours. I’ve also addressed the question of lining in one of the previous answers.

And for the Coquillage lace, since the direction of the embroidery doesn’t follow the width of the fabric, how do I adjust my fabric yardage?

We have prepared cutting layouts and fabric consumption guides for cases where adjustments are needed:
- For the Déferlante blouse, fabric consumption and piece placement remain as indicated on the product sheet and booklet for sizes 34 to 44.
For sizes 46 to 52, the cutting layouts and fabric yardage are provided.

- For the Tempête blouse, fabric consumption and piece placement remain as indicated on the product sheet and booklet for sizes 34 to 48.
For sizes 50-52, the cutting layout and fabric yardage are provided.

How do I distinguish the right side from the wrong side of fabrics like wool, cotton voile, lace, gabardine, or solid twills?

Start by looking at your fabric: for some fabrics, the selvedges (edges) may have small holes from the manufacturing process. Observe and feel these holes—the wrong side will be less pronounced and smoother, while the right side will have a more raised, textured feel. This advice is especially useful for twills and cotton voiles.
For the Botanica and Coquillage laces, the right side features small embroidered threads that highlight the lace motifs.
For gabardines and twills, the fabric’s weave is formed by characteristic diagonals that all go in the same direction. When the diagonals slope downwards to the right, you’re looking at the right side. The wrong side won’t have such pronounced diagonal lines.
With wool fabrics, it’s up to you: one side is usually fuzzier, and the other shinier. I tend to prefer the shinier side as the right side of a garment.
In any case, you can choose whichever side you prefer for any of these fabrics—it won’t affect your project.