Primrose Dress in Lined Blue Acanthe Lace

The Primrose dress never ceases to surprise. After presenting it to you in Lily viscose jacquard and in Léo viscose poplin, here is a new interpretation of the pattern in our Acanthe lace.

A hand-made jewel

My passion for lace is no longer a mystery and I am delighted to integrate this fabric into the Maison Fauve collections. For the Christmas capsule, we offer you two new laces with ornate foliage patterns. The Encre (ink blue) or Vert (emerald green) designs are trimmed with black outlines, and the play of transparency is more marked than with our other laces in the collection. It's a very soft, very supple lace, it drapes perfectly, which is ideal for Primrose's skater shape.

Sew a lined lace dress

To sew my new Primrose dress, the sewing pattern will need a lining (or maybe not if your adventurous), I chose to line the front bust pieces and the skirt.

For the blue Acanthe lace, I had the choice between black cotton voile (which brings out the deep blue of the foliage) or blue cotton voile (which emphasizes the contours). I chose the Encre (ink blue) voile which fits perfectly with the lace. I chose to sew the version with the open back, because even with choosing such pretty lace, I wanted my dress to be truly spectacular ;)

To line the Primrose dress, the procedure is quite simple 

First, the supplies:

The recommended consumption of cotton voile is 180 cm for 140 width. The lace can be ironed without problem provided that you respect the temperature indicated on the product sheet (ironing at low temperature, maximum 110 degrees, this is the icon with a single dot on your iron). You can therefore completely create the cuffs with the twisted pleats.

The facing piece in front will not be necessary, you will only cut the facing in back in your lace, and without adding interfacing.

Pattern preparation:

After cutting your pattern from the main fabric (lace), also cut from the cotton voile:

• The front bust piece 

• All front and back skirt pieces

• The inner cuff x4: for the lace cuff, I applied the interlining technique described in the video tutorial for the Cicadella lace blouse (the video can be found here). I interpose my iron-on interfacing between two cotton voile cuffs which I then join together with a seam 0.5 cm from the edge to form a single interior piece of the cuff

The doubled bust:

In order to have a neat front and back neckline:

• As described on pages 8 and 9 of the brochure, prepare the back of your dress with pre pressing the seams.

• Assemble your busts front and back lace by the shoulders

• Overlock the bottom of the facing in back then assemble it by the shoulders with the bust in front of the lining by pinning the WRONG side of the bust lining against RIGHT side of the facing in back (pin from the neckline towards the edge of the shoulder (the facing will be shorter than the bust in front of the lining this is normal)

• Then position your bust piece in front of the lining/neckline facing as we explain for classic neckline facing: pin your lace bust and your cotton voile bust RIGHT side of the lace against the REVERSE side of the cotton voile by the neckline only, and continue along the back neckline and center back as described on page 9 to have an impeccable center back seam finish (all these steps can be found in the brochure)

• All you have to do is put your pieces back on the right side: the bust lining is pressed against the lace bust (WRONG side to WRONG), the shoulder seam allowance is hidden under the lining, the facing at the front is fixed by the lining and the back by the back neckline facing piece.

• Fix the bust in front of the fabric/lining by sewing 0.5 cm from the edge (within the seam allowance) so your pieces will be together and your bust is ready to continue to be assembled as described in the step-by-step.

The lined skirt:

• Assemble the front skirt pieces of the lace as described in the brochure, then do the same for the front lining of the skirt

• Assemble the back skirt pieces of the lace as described in the brochure, then do the same for the back lining of the skirt

• Overlock the sides of your skirts front and back with the lace and lining

• Position the lining for the front skirt piece RIGHT SIDE, AGAINST WRONG side of the lace skirt front piece and assemble by the waist line

• Position the lining for the back skirt piece RIGHT SIDE, AGAINST WRONG side of the lace back skirt piece and assemble by the waist line

• You will then continue assembling the skirt and bust (via the waist line and the bottom of the band as explained in the brochure) by sewing the lace/lining skirts as a single piece.

At this point your dress has the front and back finished and is assembled by the side closure.

Closing the sides of the dress :

• Fold the front of the dress over the back so that your pieces are RIGHT SIDE AGAINST RIGHT SIDE

• Pin each side through the bust to the waistline, sew the sides of the lace/lining busts together and overlock the seam allowance from the waist towards the armholes

• For the skirt, you must pin the lace skirts and the cotton voile skirts separately, in order to close the lace skirt with one seam, then the lining of the skirt with a separate seam. This way your skater skirt will keep all its movement.

Well done, you have finished lining your Primrose dress. All other steps will be identical to the assembly instructions and the video sewing tutorial.