A tutorial to pass the time, the beautiful Sierra is here!


Here is a pattern that you have been waiting for to be restocked in paper format, and as the current conditions do not allow for delivery, you can now find Sierra's pattern in PDF format here :) But let me introduce you to the queen of the day... Sierra is a pattern with 4 real variations, each with its own pattern: open or closed back blouse, open or closed back dress.  

The open back version's  tutorial is HERE, this article will complete the explanations of the brochure...and Sierra will have no more secrets for you!

Let's go for the step-by-step photo of the assembly details of the dress and closed back version:

Make your ripstop slit on the back piece: after marking your slit, make a reinforcement stitch along it, and cut between your reinforcement seams.  On the right side of the back bust, pin your bias strip right sides together along your reinforcement seam, and open your slit as far as it will go to pin the whole length. Sew. Turn your bias strip inside out, and fold it over to get your folded border on the wrong side. Use the iron to shape and press your folded bias strip as best you can. Pin and sew. Be careful, your bias strip must perfectly cover your first assembly seam.   The end of your slit therefore includes the bias fold: reinforce this area with a double stitch at 45 degrees. Join the front and back pieces at the shoulders and sides right sides together. Finish the seam. Join the shoulders right sides together with the front and back facing. Finish the seams. Finish the bottom of your piece. Place the facing on the bust, matching the front and back centres and the shoulder seams. Sew, notch the rounded edges and fold your facing to the inside of your garment. Iron well. To secure your shell, hand stitch a few points that will blend in with the shoulder seam.  Assembling the belt on the chest: Crease your front bust between marks A and C. Press your back between marks C and E. To do this: release the thread tension on your machine, lengthen your stitch, and change your bobbin thread for a contrasting thread. Stitch in the seam allowance and leave some thread length before cutting. By pulling on the bobbin thread you will make gathers. These will be distributed when you assemble the belt using the belt markings. Join your back waistband pieces to the front waistband from the sides, right sides together. Pin one of your waistband pieces right sides together on your bust (the E notches facing the edges of the tear gap). Your waistband has markings to help you position it: start by pinning according to these markings, then spread your bust gathers. Pin well and sew. Do not turn the belt inside out. Pin your second waistband piece to the wrong side of the bust against the right side of the waistband, and also pin the 2 waistband pieces edge to edge and right sides together (the bust is sandwiched between the 2 waistbands). Sew all the way around the waistbands, leaving the area between the 2 F-stitches open. Turn your belt over and place your bust on the right side, iron well and mark the seam allowance of the unstitched part of the belt.  The skirt: Preparation of the button placket on the back skirt pieces: step to be done on each ½ back, follow the diagram in your brochure. The photos will also detail this preparation. Sew over the entire height of the middle back. Fold over the top of the short side, fold over the middle back edge by 1 cm (seam allowance) then fold along the fold line and sew the short side from the fold to the F mark (seam allowance 1 cm). Make your buttonholes on the left half back.  

Pockets: Line your pocket bottoms. Place your pocket bottoms on the front and back skirt pieces right sides together. Sew the pockets along the whole length, and on the sides of your skirt pieces. Unfold the pockets and place your back skirt pieces on the front skirt piece with right sides together, overlapping the pockets. Sew on the sides, pull up to the pockets and sew stopping at the pocket opening mark. With the needle still in place, turn and sew around the pocket to the other pocket opening mark, then up to the waist. Your skirt is now assembled. 

Skirt and bust assembly: as described above, gather the waistband of your skirt. Place the wrong side of your bust against the wrong side of your skirt, and sew on the seam allowance of the waistband, spreading your gathers well. Fold your bust down, your skirt will be sandwiched at the waist in your waistband: pin your waistband to the right side. Sew on the right side 0.5 cm from the edge (apply yourself as this seam will be visible).  Sleeves: close your sleeve lengthwise, overcast the seam. Assemble your sleeve on the armhole, relying on the reference notches. 

The wrist: Fold your wrist piece right sides together and join edge to edge. Form the cuff bracelet by folding according to the mark, wrong sides together. Press the bottom of your sleeve and join with your cuff (unclosed portion of the cuff edge to edge with the bottom of the sleeve). Finish and turn your cuff inside out.   Sew your bottom hem, and your pretty buttons...and then put on your wonderful dress! I hope this tutorial will help you, don't hesitate to check the one on the top for an open back dress :) See you soon for more articles, in the meantime stay home and take care of yourself! 

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