the two patterns have that in common, a flat felted seam finish. So I propose to use this very simple assembly method which ensures a very clean finish. Instead of assembling your pieces right side against right side, you position them back to back and you stitch at 0.5 cm from the edge.
Trim lightly to reduce seam creases and open your seam with an iron.
Fold your pieces of fabric upside down and stitch 1 cm from the edge. Your first stitch will then be enclosed in the second. Press the seam on the wrong side of the fabric well.
In order to properly flatten your seams, you will topstitch the seam margins on the right side.
Here is the result obtained on the blouse's right side.
And here's what you'll have inside your garment.
is a complex technique, I recommend that you practice it once or twice on a sample before you start your sleeve. Your plan has a marker drawing of the future slot that you are going to transfer on the back of your sleeve.
You mark on your 2 pieces folds with an iron according to the photos below:
- Mark the top of the slit on the back of your sleeve with a thread that protrudes at each corner or with an erasable marker and position your pieces edge to edge right next to the pieces of the length of the point on the back of the sleeve, along the path of the slit. Stitch 1 cm from the edges of each piece until you reach the end of the slit mark. Open the slit as described in the diagram.
- Turn your pieces over by the slit on the right side of the sleeve.
on your underneath piece shape the folds according to the iron marks as shown in the diagram: make a seam allowance on edge 1 and fold this strip on edge 2 of the slit. The seam allowances will be enclosed in the strip like a bias. Then sew the strip right-side up, stitching 2 mm from the edge and stopping at the end of the slit.
The point: the point is folded a first time to bring it back to the seam line of the under flap strip. We mark with an iron. Then fold the strip a second time so as to bring edge 3 back, having taken care to make a seam allowance, on edge 4 of the slit. The objective is that the point covers the under flap in equal width.
- Return to iron the tips of the capuchin leg, superimpose the strips and pin to mark the top of the slit before sewing. Then make the seam that will fix the point flap: start from the bottom of the sleeve, taking care not to sew the under flap with the top flap. Once you have reached the pin, sew the two pieces together, this time by stitching. Make the point, go down and stop the seam always at the pin mark. Keeping the needle stitched into the fabric, make a pretty X to finish the flap.
-the front bust part supporting the buttons (right or left depending on whether you sew Swallow or Sparrow): your pattern shows fold marks of what will be your future button placket supporting the buttons. Model your folds as shown in the photos by folding the fabric back to back and making a small fold of 1 cm on the free edge which will be sewn in topstitching. Stitch the seam on the right side that fixes your tab.
-the front bust which will support the buttonholes hidden under the placket: first make up your buttonhole placket which will hide your buttonholes. Your pattern has fold marks for this tab, trace the folds with an erasable pen. Sew your button placket right sides together on the middle of the front at 1 cm, press with iron.
Follow the line of your folds by marking them well with an iron (fold backwards against the back, then backwards against the front and then backwards against back...like an accordion) and fold the free edge of your piece by 1 cm.
Sew the topstitch on the right side of the bust to fix. Make all your buttonholes. Attach your button placket by stitching along the C mark. I hope these tutorials, which cover the most technical points, have helped you. Others will follow, I promise ;) Find the patterns of the new collection on the online shop here
Have a great weekend! Emilie.